Report 16

Mysterious Bali

This I think one of the most mysterious places we have visited so far. We initially stayed in Ubud for a few days in a very pleasant hotel overlooking a richly landscaped ravine with cottages cascading down the hill and views south down the valley. Ubud sits on the southern slope of the central mountains toward the sea. The rain run off is controlled thruogh a complex system of channels and sluices which provides water for the rice paddies which are a most vibrant green in colour. It is this pattern of geometric green shapes that makes the place so special for me. The little raised banks that define the paddies are used as walking routes which means that it is possible to walk anywhere across the landscape. A photographers paradise.

Bali folk around Ubud live in family compounds, a plot of land about the size of a West Van lot containing a series of pavillions, each pavillion having a specific function, sleeping space for each extended family member, workrooms, kitchen, rice store and private temple all surrounded by a wall about chest height. The entrance gateway is defined by shrines with a screen wall behind. Cant sort out what makes it all so special but it sure is . Will have to read up on it, difficult to talk to people about it cos english other than tourist english is very limited. But it has something to do with Balis brand of hinduism that has resulted in the form of village layout, housing and the detailing of the buildings. Very impressive.

We took a day trip to the north coast which took us high into the mountains, change of climate, scenery, crops and so on. The objective was to see Lovina beach to see whether we wanted to stay a few days there. Decided it was not our cup of tea. Instead headed off to Lombok by fast ferry and stayed at a cheap place on the beach just north of Sengigi. It suited us just fine and enabled us to recharge our batteries. We managed to move cottages down the price continuum to $5.5 US without any discernable change of "quality".

In Lombok we met Lenore and Don, friends of Juanita who work in Jakarta and who were taking a holiday with Lenores daughter and son in law. They were very gracious and we were able to share in transport costs to see a bit of the Island and to go snorkelling off the Gili Islands nearby. Very enjoyable. It was in Lombok when we got news of the systematic bombings of a number of Roman Catholic churches across Indonesia with, I believe 17 killed. We also learned that Indonesia subsidizes Muslims to take Haj in Mecca that gives one some idea of the commitment to Allah and the curious mix of "church" and state. I feel sure there are many tales to tell around that as well as government officials privately being involved in major projects brought about through their position. This all adds more to the mystery of this place.

Both Mary and I have noted that we see little wildlife or birds but we did see a number of eight legged animals with a head at either end that pants a lot. The flowering shrubs are very impressive.

For our final five days here we moved to one of the Gil Islands, Gili Air. Stayed at the best hotel for $28 US a night. They had a good chef and got our first taste of western food since we left Italy. Gili Air is one of those real places, villagers farming, boatbuilders and so on as well as folks having a go at "tourism". We walked the island a number of times, swam, watched sunsets and discovered a new drink that just about rivals margaritas...arak attack....rice spirit with honey and lemon. We spent new year at the hotel with everyone; staff and all including the hotel manager leaping in the pool. It was then that I saw one of the servers from the restaurant dancing on the edge of the pool....how sensuous. Who said muslims were private people.

Visitted Gili Tarawangen on one of our day trips. Known as the party island, lots of divers and snorkellers, many young folk with wrap around sun glasses filing their nails around the pool. Met a woman from Montreal who fell in love with Asia and is building a small resort. Now that is what I call commitment or stupidity.

Another mystery with Indonesia is the difficulty of getting good information about tourist opportunities. Strange but many seem to be unable to give you the straight goods. Got a bit tense for us cos we could not find out how to get off the island [or get on it for that matter] in order to get our flight to Darwin. But we succeeded. It was at this point I was wishing for an Explore tour and a competant leader...oh Mr Pock where were you.

Some may recall that our original purpose to visit Bali and Lombok was to take a Ramblers walking tour which was cancelled due to the lack of support, probably due to the troubles. I think I would come back again, the place would be wonderful to hike in, big volcanos and those paddy fields...we shall see.